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Procedure:
Note:
Sweetbreads are the thymus glands of calves and young animals. The gland
gradually disappears as the animal matures. They are considered a delicacy
and are often expensive. Sweetbreads are very mild in flavor and delicate
in texture. They are usually braised or breaded and sautéed in
butter. Before cooking, sweetbreads should be prepared according to
the following procedure.
Sweetbread
Preparation:
- Soak
sweetbreads in several changes of cold water for several hours or overnight.
This removes blood, which would darken the meat when cooked.
- Rinse sweetbreads one more time from soaking overnight. Add to a 2
gallon
stock pot.
- Prepare court bouillon; peel and slice carrot and onion. Slice celery
add mirepoix to 2 gallon stock pot with sweetbreads.
Add
water, vermouth and sachet, weigh sweetbreads down with a smaller lid
then would fit pot properly, bring to a simmer and let cook for approximately
10-15 minutes or until sweetbreads are firm.
- Remove sweetbreads and plunge in ice bath to cool.
- After sweetbreads have been blanched and cooled, remove from ice bath
to a clean container on ice. This is to keep sweetbreads cold during
the cleaning process to remove the membrane.
- Sweetbreads
are now ready, reserve for later. They can be kept in this stage for
approximately 2-3 days in the refrigerator.
Brown
Butter Sauce:
- Combine the heavy cream and butter in a 1 quart sauce pan, bring to
a boil and reduce to simmer. Note: When bringing to boil stir occasionally
and watch carefully so as the cream does not boil over. Once reduced
to a simmer stir occasionally, allow to cook until the cream and butter
breaks.
- Once the cream and butter breaks you must stir constantly to toast
the milk solids until golden brown, this will happen quickly, be careful
not to burn the milk solids.
- Once milk solids are golden brown remove from pan and allow cooling
in a different container.
- Once cooled, but still liquid, puree in blender to break up milk
solids. You can make the brown butter one week in advance and just reheat
in a water bath when needed.
Madiera
Sauce:
- Peel and small dice the shallots, reserve.
- Peel and small mince the garlic, reserve.
- In a small 1 quart sauce pot add clarified butter and shallots, lightly
caramelize shallots.
- Add garlic and sweat until fragrant.
- Deglaze with 2 ounces of Madiera wine and reduce by half.
- Add Demi-glace and sachet, reduce to sauce consistency.
- Season with kosher salt and ground white pepper and strain through
fine chinois.
- At this point sauce can be held in a hot water bath or refrigerated
for up to one week.
Garnish:
- Cipollini Onions: One day in advance prepare cipollini onions: Place
a 2 quart sauce pot on stove filled with water and bring to a boil.
While that is coming to a boil, peel cipollini onions and reserve for
cooking. Set up an ice water bath for refreshing cipollini onions once
blanched. Season water with some kosher salt and blanch the cipollini
onions for approximately 3-5 minutes or just until tender. Remove from
boiling water and refresh in ice bath. Prepare balsamic marinade by
combining 1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar, 2 tablespoons of grape seed
oil, kosher salt and ground white pepper to taste, mix thoroughly. Drain
cipollini onions well and let marinate at least one day, they will last
up to two weeks in marinade.
- Creamer Potatoes: Place potatoes in a small pot and cover with cold
water. Add 1 teaspoons of salt and bring to a boil, once boiling turn
down to a simmer and let cook until potatoes are fork tender. Remove
from water and let cool on a sheet pan. Once cool refrigerate until
needed. This procedure can be done one day in advance.
- Set up an ice bath with plenty of ice and cold water to refresh the
baby carrots, tomatoes and haricots verts once blanched.
- Baby Carrots: Peel the baby carrots and place in a small pot with
cold water and bring to a simmer.
- In another 2 quart pot fill with water and bring to a boil.
- Roma Tomatoes, Haricots Verts: While that is coming to a boil, with
small paring knife, remove the stems from the roma tomatoes and score
an X on the opposite end of tomato to prepare them for blanching to
remove the skin and seeds. Also, remove the ends of the haricots vert,
and reserve for blanching.
- Once the water is at a rolling boil, blanch the roma tomatoes for
about 15 seconds to just blister the skin and refresh in the ice bath.
Remove tomatoes from ice bath, let drain, keep ice bath to refresh haricots
verts.
- Now season the boiling water with enough salt to make it taste like
the ocean. This will retain the color of the haricots verts when cooking.
Note; green vegetables release acid into the water and the evaporation,
which will discolor the vegetables. To counteract the acid an alkaline
must be added to the water, salt is an excellent alkaline. Also do not
cover the pot or the acid released in the evaporation will be dispersed
back into the water.
- Once the water is back at a rolling boil and seasoned with salt,
blanch the haricots verts for about 5 minutes or until al dente. The
starches should be jelled completely when cooking any bean, to aid in
the digestion process. Remove haricots verts and refresh in ice bath.
Once chilled again remove from water, let drain and reserve for plating.
This step can be done one day in advance.
- Chanterelle Mushrooms: Clean the chanterelle mushrooms by brushing
them with a dry pastry brush to remove any dirt, trim the stems and
quarter if they are very large. Reserve for cooking.
- Capers: Drain capers well and reserve for cooking.
- Chives: Cut chives as small as you can and reserve for garnishing
plates.
- Lemon Juice: Cut Lemon in half and wrap in cheese cloth for last
minute garnishing of plates.
- Plating: Over medium high heat, pre-heat a large 12" sauté
pan. Season sweetbreads with salt and ground white pepper, dredge in
flour, reserve. Add clarified butter to sauté pan add potatoes,
cipollini onion and carrots first. Let cook one minute then add sweetbreads,
chanterelles and haricot vert, let cook two minutes or until sweetbreads
are golden brown and heated through. Plate sweetbreads and sauce with
brown butter, a splash of Madiera sauce, dice tomatoes, chives and lemon
juice.
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